1. Banaras & Prayagraj.

The Holy Terrains of

Banaras & Prayagraj

Considering the fact that one of the apps was going to attack our privacy, we thought of taking a week off to enjoy our own privacy. 

Well, that was a joke but not completely irrelevant...

On 8/Feb, when Suchit and I initiated our journey at Mumbai with a confirmed return ticket for 14/Feb in our respective pockets, less we thought that we wouldn't feel like coming back from the destination, we were flying to.

Landed at Lal Bahadur Shastri international airport, Varanasi. The art at the site was a visual treat so it wasn't so boring to wait for the luggage; the wait wasn't much anyway.

The taxi was waiting for us and our driver partner was quite welcoming.

Per our plan, we were supposed to immediately leave Banaras (I somehow like the word Banaras more than Varanasi; hence I will be using it hereafter) to reach Prayagraj.

Although it was a 3 hour straight journey, we took a break around 10 km before entering Prayagraj. The purpose was to visit a temple; a beautiful Jain temple that had a nicely modelled Kailash mountain and Bhagwan Shri Adinath residing in a tranquil manner on its peak.

After around 30 minutes, we resumed and, on our way, we happened to see the holy rivers of Ganga and Yamuna flowing. Since Magh mela was going on, the wide bank of the rivers were covered with thousands of tents. 

Without stopping anywhere, we headed towards Swaminarayan temple that was our abode for 2 nights.

Post dinner at a local restaurant, it was time to bid goodbye to 8/Feb.

9/Feb:

The good part was, we didn't have to wake up too early. 

Initially we thought of having a proper breakfast on the way, but we encountered a vendor who was selling the popular Guavas of Prayagraj. We hogged on to it and resumed our travel to Kaushambi, located around 70 km from Prayagraj.

The agenda was to visit different Jain temples located in that area. The first one that we visited was located in a very small village.

Soon as the car approached the gate of the temple, few kids reached out to the car. The immediate thought that crossed my mind was that these kids must not be seeing outsiders often and hence they are approaching out of curiosity.

In no time we realized that the kids started asking for money. Looking at the conditions, we felt sad. 

Meanwhile, we assured the kids that once we come back from the temple, we will see them.

Outside the temple, we saw that nearly 40 kids had gathered and were waiting for us.

We asked the caretaker and visited the nearby shop to buy some biscuits thereby asking the kids to form a queue and sit for few minutes.

On our return from the shop, all the kids were patiently sitting and eagerly waiting with a hope that they will get something from us.

We didn't ask for the feedback proactively but as we were approaching our car, we couldn't miss noticing that the kids were happy; probably so much little for us was big for them.

The entire district is poverty stricken. It was painful to see the surroundings in sorry state of affairs.

We headed towards the next temple. Three temples were in the same vicinity, of which we had covered one. The second one was fairly new, and some portion of the construction was still on.

After offering prayers at both the temples and seeking peace and bliss for the entire world, we marched towards the third where we were welcomed by the caretaker and his family. 

They were in the process of preparing delicious lunch for us. Firstly, we went inside the temple and performed rituals and after that, we settled for our meals.

The next set of temples at Prabhasgiri were approximately 15 kms away. It took around 20 minutes to reach. The roads were in good shape.

One of the temples there was having multiple temples inside. We went to each of those. Subsequently, the caretakers asked us if we were keen on visiting the small mountain that had 180 steep steps, but a beautiful temple on the top of it.

We were fully ready for the same and the amazing temple on the top was worth the visit. We couldn't miss investing a couple of minutes to enjoy the fantastic view from the top.

After coming down, we realized that we had to rush back to Prayagraj as we didn't want to miss the local sights.

At around 3pm, we reached Anand Bhavan (birthplace of the first Prime minister of India). The place was not only beautiful but also had a fantastic collection of articles from 1800s and the early portion of 20^th century. We felt amazed to see some then futuristic items like electric shaver, etc. 

After a monumental visit, we headed towards the holy Sangam. It is called Sangam because it is a place where three rivers - Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati meet. Although Saraswati is said to be hidden but people believe that it exists. The Sangam is supposed to be one of the holiest place in the country for those who follow Hindu religion, and a destination for the World's biggest Fair - Kumbh Mela.

The vehicle was parked on one of the banks of Yamuna river. We took the boat to visit the Sangam. Since it was a manual rowboat, it took us an hour to reach the Sangam. A lot of boats kept transiting at the Sangam. People would come, get down at the platform that was built, offer prayers to Sangam and gently place coconuts in the water (as a part of a ritual).

We enjoyed eye-soothing combination of sky on the top, water below us and the Sun calling it a day in front of us. Despite being in the heart of the city, while in the middle of water, we could experience the serenity and the holiness in the present moment.

After disembarking from the boat, we headed towards the city to visit another temple that was located in the middle of the city on a road that is named Zero Road. 

There is an interesting history behind the name. British India did not adopt the international standard time zones until 1905 when the meridian passing through Prayagraj (then Allahabad) at 82.5º east (of Greenwich Meridian ) longitude was picked as the central meridian for India, corresponding to a single time zone for the country at 5 hours and 30 minutes in advance of GMT. This location (82.5º east) at Prayagraj is hence called Zero Road.

At the Zero road temple, we could witness the grace of Shri Adinath Bhagwan, the First Tirthankar. The visit was quite soothing. On way back from temple, relished on to black gulab jamun (Indian sweet) and it was yummm.

The dessert for starters doesn't allow the tummy to skip dinner so we headed towards a restaurant that was located in a mall. Just before entering the mall, my eyes witnessed a Pani Puri (water balls) vendor on the street and I wanted to have it. However, we chose to have dinner first and then come back for hogging on to Pani Puri.

Considering Pani Puri as a dessert was not a bad choice. Soon, we reached our stay and in no time, we were asleep.

10/Feb:

Checked out early morning and headed towards an old temple of Tirthankar Bhagwan Adinath, at Purimtal (in the city of Prayagraj itself). After offering Prayers, we stopped by for Tea and quick snack.

The journey today was a little longer than our usual in the past 2 days. We were supposed to travel from Prayagraj to the other side of Varanasi district. After a short break on the highway and an investment of over 15 min at the toll booth (as the FasTag machine wasn’t functioning), we reached Sinhpuri at the lunch time. Sinhpuri (or Singhpur) is the birthplace of Bhagwan Shreyansnath, the 11^th Tirthankar, as per Jainism. First, we went inside the temple and after the worship, we proceeded for lunch.

The temple authorities had prepared a wonderful lunch for us. They served us Hot Indian breads along with the rest of the meal that was freshly prepared. Before we could even think of taking a nap, the clock was catching up with its pace and hence, we moved on.

The next point of visit was Sarnath, which is just a kilometre away from the Sinhpuri village. Sarnath is a home to a lot of Buddhist temples that are built by several Buddhist nations viz. Japan, Sri Lanka, China, Thailand, Burma, Nepal, etc. Gautam Buddha delivered his first Sermon at the Deer Park in Sarnath and hence this place is of utmost importance to the people who follow Buddhist religion. We did visit the site and it was mesmerizing.

We also visited a Digambar Jain temple. After prayers, we discovered that the caretaker was an interesting person. He showed us various pictures from his collection.

Next, we visited the Sarnath museum that houses over 6000 sculptures in artefacts from as old as 6^th Century. It also has the original Ashok Chakra. The museum is supposed to be over 110 year old.

Before getting into the car, on our guide’s request, we took a brief tour to the handloom shop where a weaver was weaving a beautiful Saree. They claimed that the Silk that was being used was not the one that is produced by insect larvae.

We settled in the car and moved towards Chandravati, which was around 40 minute drive from Sarnath. It was a small village and home to the 8^th Tirthankar Bhagwan Shri Chandrapabhu. There are 2 temples, one Digambar and another Shwetambar, right at the bank of the Holy Ganga. After meditating for a while, we left towards the pious city of Banaras. It is believe that Banaras is a city set up on the trident of Shiva.

The buzz could be felt soon as we entered the city. We were supposed to reach an area named Bhelupur. It is the birthplace of 23^rd Tirthankar, Shri Parswanath Bhagwan. After entering the guest house at the Bhelupur Jain Temple and relaxing for a little while, we paraded towards a fantastic South Indian restaurant located around 200 metres away. Post fuelling in, we reached our abode and hit our respective beds without setting any alarm for next morning.

11/Feb:

After travelling across cities over last 2 days, it was time to explore the small lanes of Banaras, which is considered as the oldest cities in the world.  In Mark Twain’s words – Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.

Before moving out, we offered prayers at the Bhelupur Temple, which was bang opposite our stay. In fact, it was in the same premise.

Post breakfast, we took an Auto-Rickshaw (a three wheeler vehicle that is driven using the handlebar) to Bhadaini. Bhadaini is the birthplace of Bhagwan Shri Suparshwanath, the 7^th Tirthankar. There are 2 temples and each of them is located right at the ghat named Jain Ghat. Overall, Banaras has 88 Ghats as per the facts available on internet, but the locals have different numbers to say. Some claim 84, some 108 and some in between.

We performed rituals at both the temples and travelled back to our stay. Since a group of 400 people had come at the Bhelupur Jain Temple, the temple authorities had arranged lunch for them. The manager requested us to join in and have it. Initially we were reluctant but since he insisted, we budged.

Typically, a heavy lunch generates a surreal energy that wants to hit the bed. Besides, the sun on the head was indicating us to go to our room. We chose to do so.

We started around 4pm and took an electric 3-wheeler to Kashi Vishwanath temple. We had to get down around 400 metres before the temple entry since the road was not open to vehicles during a particular time range. Mobile phones and bags aren’t allowed inside the temple, so we had to deposit our stuff at the locker room. The temple was constructed in the year 1780 by the Maratha monarch, Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. It is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, or Jyotirlingams, the holiest of Shiva Temples.

As we came out of the temple, we started walking towards the Dashaswamedh Ghat since we wanted to take a boat ride and witness the Ganga Aarti. On our way, we encountered an interesting man named Kashinath. He asked us whether we want to take a boat ride, to which we casually asked him the money he is going to charge. He began to walk with us and started narrating stories about his own experiences and encounters with the saintly beings and God. We kept asking him about the charges, but he was on and on, sharing his tale. We also told him that if we do not get on to his boat, he might end up investing his time and the precious business hour. However, he didn’t budge and as we reached the Ghat, we finally were able to settle down for an amount which happened to be convincing to all of us.

During our boat journey, we could absorb a series of epics delivered by the amazing Kashinath. At 6.30, the boat was parked in front of the Dashashwamedh Ghat, where the Aarti of the mighty Ganga was about to begin. A magnanimous environment had already shaped up. Few dozen boats were around us. The Ghat was full of people and the feeling of holiness was emerging in. It was a breathtakingly awesome event that was experienced for close to an hour. After the Aarti, Mr. Kashinath helped us disembark at the bank of the Ghat. We exchanged good-bye and moved on.

The stomach was demanding fuel and the mind was craving for local delicacies. We settled down for an extravagant Chaat, mouth-watering Lassi (sweet and thick buttermilk) and Malaiyo (special cream made from milk) and to top everything, 2 rounds of Banarasi and Maghai Paan.

There was a lot more to explore on the next day, so we chose to cruise towards our temporary residence that was a little more temporary that what I assume my permanent residence to be.

It was difficult to shut the eyes with the spellbinding experience that the entire day bestowed upon us.

12/Feb:

Today, we had planned to explore the length and breadth of Banaras. Before that, we worshipped the temple we were staying in as well as another temple in the adjoining premises.

We initiated our journey to Ramnagar Fort. The unique thing about this place was we had to cross the bridge and go to the other side of the river. All the other places, that we visited and the ones that were pending, dwell on the west bank of the Holy Ganga, rather entire city is based on that end.

Coincidentally / Unfortunately, Ramnagar Fort was the only place that turned out to be a thumbs down. Although it has a great collectives ranging from vintage cars to swords to furniture to garments and beyond, it was all ill-maintained. We were wondering that if the kings from those days come back to life, they might die again of shock.

After a quick 30 min tour of the fort, we ordered our legs towards the vehicle and requested the vehicle to move towards Durga temple, which was constructed in 18^th century.

The next exciting place was Banaras Hindu University (BHU), a huge educational campus spread over 1300 acres. The land was donated by the then King of Kashi. It was established in 1916 and Madan Mohan Malaviya was one of the pioneer members. It is the home to popular IIT. Besides, there are numerous structures that contain hostels, admin buildings and 14 different faculties as well as 140 departments. A huge number of dignitaries in various fields of art, law, literature, administration, science, commerce, engineering, technology etc. are notable Alumni of BHU.

BHU also has a replica of Kashi Vishwanath temple. This temple is build inside the campus especially for the students.

With a mind full of positive energy and stomach craving to be filled with food, we left the university to find something to eat.

Kabir Chaura, our next milestone, was the highlight of the trip. It is the place where mystic poet and saint Kabir was found and he grew up. Kabir lived for 120 years and witnessed 3 different centuries between 1398 and 1518.

A very simple looking old man with white beard and extreme serenity on his face, received us and requested us to join him. He walked us to the opposite end of the street and showed us how they are uplifting the physical appearance of the home that Kabir, his parents and his kids were staying in. He also mentioned that the work will be getting over soon and the renovated place was scheduled to be inaugurated within next couple of weeks. He recommended us to talk to one person, who was in front of us, if we were interested to know more about Saint Kabir.

For about 40 minutes, the man narrated the inspiring and insightful life of the Saint Poet. He also mentioned about the old man and added that, he is the chief of the Kabir Panth (Path of Kabir). We were mesmerized by the simplicity he carried. Overall, the vibrations of the place were extremely soothing. We sat inside the meditation hall for some time and visited the bookstore, before we exchanged Goodbyes.

With refreshing feeling, we moved on to knock the doors of Batuk Bhairav temple. After having a look and spending a little time, we visited Sankat Mochan Hanuman temple. The temple located near the last Ghat of Varanasi, Assi Ghat, is said to be established by popular and revered preacher and poet saint Sri Goswami Tulsidas in the early 16th century.

Thereafter, we had a quick tea / coffee and munchies. It was around 5.30 pm by then, so we thought of settling down at Assi Ghat. Besides Dashashwamedh Ghat, Assi Ghat is the only place where the Ganga Aarti happens. Over there, the crowd is relatively less. We had a good close view. It was thoroughly breath-taking.

After Aarti, we moved ahead, stepped into a restaurant for a fulfilling dinner. It met our expectation. Banarasi Pan did the dessert trick and then, we checked-in to our room. The reminiscence of entire day in form of a brief chat ended into a sound sleep. 

13/Feb:

I would call this day as Varanasi weekend, not only because it was a Saturday, but it was a day at leisure, more or less.

Once we were done with the prayers at the temple in our campus, we had a gratifying breakfast. Thereafter, we had to travel to Ram Ghat, which was a place not known to many locals in the area we were in. While we were thinking whom to ask, a craving of having tea triggered  in, so we entered into a cosy restaurant that was so small that only a few people can sit at one instance. Inside, it had one rectangular table and 2 other tables of same length but shorter height; the longer one was to keep the food and the shorter ones were to sit, obviously.

One e-Rickshaw driver agreed to come along but after riding few kms, we realized that he also wasn’t so sure of the way. We kept asking a few people and one small group of rickshaw drivers chatting internally happened to know about it. The e-Rickshaw had to halt at the end of one lane and afterwards, we were supposed to walk, as no vehicle could go in those tiny lanes. The driver conveyed that he would wait at the same place until we are back.

Although we agreed, we had an apprehension about how to reach back at this place if we get lost. However, we left it to the nature and started walking. After a decent 20 odd minutes of walking and asking people and turning here and there, we reached the 200+ year old Jain temple of Shri Chintamani Parshwanath Bhagwan. About that place, there is a detailed and interesting history that goes close to 3000 years back. We offered prayers, had a chat with the caretaker and left.

While we started walking back, we were thinking about how we are going to find this guy. However, to our surprise, it wasn’t too difficult. Once we came out on a little wider lane, we asked a small shop vendor, if he has seen any red coloured electric rickshaw. He just pointed his index finger and we started walking in that direction; found him.

We told him that we are pretty hungry and also asked him to suggest a good place to eat. He did suggest and we started moving towards the restaurant. On our way, he asked if we were interested in having Tandoori tea. We nodded in agreement. He parked at a place and asked us to go in. We asked him to join but he refused. We insisted and he joined us. Like we did during our entire trip, here also we attempted to strike a conversation with the locals. After a wonderful tea, we conveyed our regards and left.

The place suggested to us for lunch was awesome. Post that, we asked him to drop us at our residence. On our way, he asked us if we want to visit a handloom house for shopping. We denied but since he insisted to only have a look, we agreed.

In the evening, we took a rickshaw, got down as close to Dashaswamedh Ghat and started marching towards it. The idea was to witness the Aarti from the platform (2 days back we had seen from the boat). In around 45 minutes, the Aarti was almost done, and we started walking to explore local markets to relish on another round of local delicacies; our main aim was to hit the most popular Thandai shop.

Amid amazing hospitality, we had delicious Thandai (minus Bhaang) and had an interesting talk with the vendor. After a long walk and a quick Pani Puri grab, it was time to relish on a Kachori Chaat.

There wasn’t any plan to wake up early, but we wanted the time to halt, as it was our last night at Banaras and we wanted to stay more.

14/Feb:

Banaras Airport Calling…

With no mood of flying back, we were absolutely determined to at least have a prolonged hot breakfast and gather all the memories over past 7 days.

Reached Airport at 11.45 and proceeded towards the boarding gates, after security clearance.

Despite having travelled quite a bit, I still feel amazed to experience that just in a couple of hours, not only the coordinates change drastically, but a cultural shift is witnessed too. Mind is much faster, nonetheless.

Well, time to say “Catch you soon” to the reader and Banaras.

Gratitude:

Very special Gratitude towards Suchit, who made this entire extravaganza happen and helped in editing this blog. Also, a huge thanks and cheers to Yash, who guided us significantly about the Holy Banaras.